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What do you create with your Artistic Edge Cutter?

We love the Artistic Edge cutter, because it such a versatile tool that can cut a variety of different materials.

Katrina regularly cuts fabric for applique, vinyl, heat set vinyl, template plastic and more.

The Artistic Edge cutters come with a wonderful software package, SimpleCut, and this software allows you to create your own unique cutter designs or you can choose from one of the 3,500 included designs.

Buy the Artistic Edge Cutter here Continue reading What do you create with your Artistic Edge Cutter?

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Simple Cut Software & Artistic Edge Cutter Workshop

Simple Cut Software & Artistic Edge Cutter Workshop

 

 

 

Here is the link to the recording of the class

When: Firday 17 March, 10am AEST

Cost: $15-

Requirements:

  • Laptop computer with Simple Cut 7.1 software loaded
  • Artistic Edge Digital Cutter
  • Note Book

In this workshop you will learn how to create a vinyl butterfly cutout, skills you will learn

  • import clipart into Simple Cut 7.1
  • create and edit your own cutter file created from clipart
  • transfer design from Simple Cut 7.1 to Artistic Edge Digital Cutter
  • setting up Artistic Edge Cutter for cutting vinyl
  • cutting vinyl

The Simple Cut Software and Artistic Edge Cutter workshop is being offered as both an instore and interactive online class for March, because it is our trial run using the virtual classroom live, this class will be free for to online attendees, all you need to do is contact us at info@woodorwhandcrafts.com or fill out the form below

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Calling All Artists and Teachers Who Have a Skill to Share

In 2017, Woodrow Handcrafts are looking to expand their class list to include,

  • Patchwork
  • Water colours
  • Drawing
  • Hand Embroidery
  • Oil painting
  • Knitting
  • Crochet
  • anything else you can suggest, we have the room to accommodate

Peter and Katrina, can’t teach anymore than they already do, so we are seeking Artists and Teachers with a Skill they would like to teach the community to come and have a chat.

We would like to hold regular monthly classes, but we are also interested in hosting one off “Master Class” style workshops as well.

If you or someone you know would be interested in teaching in store, then give us a call on (07) 5482 1296 or send us an email at info@woodrowhandcrafts.com, to discuss further.

 

 

 

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Coffee Cup Mug Rug

There is nothing better on a cold winters evening than sitting down with a nice hot cuppa. What every cuppa needs is an amazing mug rug to go with it. This is a great quick and easy project for any sewer. Add a matching mug and this project is a great last minute gift idea, Mothers Day, Christmas or that forgotten birthday.

Requirements

Printed Template

10″ block of backing fabric

10″ block of batting

Scraps quilting cotton

A neutral sewing thread for construction

(1m) 25mm Bias Binding

General sewing supplies including pins, O foot, F Foot, Rotary Cutter, Quilting Ruler, Scissors, Hand sewing needles.

Firstly, you will need to print out the template for this project. When printing the template make sure that the block is a 5 3/4″ block, you will need to add a 1/4″ seam allowance around the edge of the block. Make sure you draw this in so you don’t forget about it at the end.

Template

I found that i like to print of a second copy of the template so I can colour in the making areas before I start sewing. This helps to keep track of the fabric combinations, especially if you are new to the technique of Paper Piecing.

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Next you will need to work out the fabric combinations which you wish to use. If you have chosen not to used scraps of quilting cotton, when you will need to cut the fabric in to manageable pieces.

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On the reverse side of the pattern, line up piece 1 (background) and piece 2 (handle) with right sides facing each other. Make sure the pieces of fabric are stacked so that the background piece is up against the paper.

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Now turn the stack over so that you have the printed side facing up, go to your sewing machine and thread your machine with the neutral thread. Attach the F foot to your sewing machine and choose a straight stitch with the needle in the center position. Stitch down the line between piece 1 and piece 2, remembering to reverse at the beginning and at the end to prevent the stitches coming undone.

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Now, you will need to turn the stack back over. Open out the two pieces of fabric so that both rights sides are facing you and press with the iron.

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Now, pick up the third piece of fabric, which will be the next piece of the handle fabric.  Lay the third piece down over the top of the previous two pieces. Make sure that the third piece is over lapping the line above sections 1 and 2.

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Next you will need to turn the stack over so that you have the printed side facing up. Make sure the the new piece of fabric is still over lapping the line. Straight stitch along the line at the bottom of the third block of fabric. It is also the line that is at the top of the first two blocks. Once you have finished stitching the line it will look like you have stitched the letter T.

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Trim any extra fabric back away from the line that you just stitched. But you do want to leave enough fabric so that you have a 1/4″ seam. Now you will need to turn the last piece of fabric back over so that it is facing up and press with the iron.

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Now lay the next fabric colour down over the top of the stack of fabric. In this step the fabric colour is 4 which is a back ground colour. Make sure the fabric stack is facing the right side to right side.

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Turn the stack over so that you have the printed side facing up. Straight stitch along the line that is between section 3 and 4. Turn the stack over so that you can see the fabric and trim any extra fabric off so that you have a 1/4″ seam, open out the fabric that you just stitched into place so that all the right sides are facing and press with an iron.

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Lay the next piece of fabric down over the top of the stack, making sure that all right sides are facing each other. For this section you will need the fabric to match the handle. Remember to leave enough room to over lap the stitch line.

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Turn the stack back over and trim back any extra fabric to the seam allowance.

Turn the fabric back so that the right side is facing up and press with an iron.

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One the reserve side of the paper pattern, line up fabric piece 6. Lay the fabric right side down on the stack. Make sure the new piece of fabric (cup) is facing right side to right side.

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Turn the stack over so that you have the printed side facing up. Straight stitch along handle (that you just created) and the main area of the cup.

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On the reverse side of the paper pattern, line up the fabric piece 7, which is a background piece and lay it down right side to right side on top of the stack. Position the piece so that it is stacked over the last handle piece.

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Now you can turn the fabric back so that the right side is facing up and press with an iron.

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Now you will need to line up the next piece of fabric, which will be piece 8 (a background) and lay it down over the top of the stack. Position the piece so that it is stacked right side to right side over the cup section.

Turn the stack over so that you have the printed side facing up. Straight stitch along the straight line located on the left hand corner of the cup.

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On the reverse side of the paper pattern, line up fabric piece 9 (background) and lay it down over the top of the stack. Position piece 9 so that it is stacked right side to right side over the side of the cup.

Turn the stack over so that you have the printed side facing up. Straight stitch along the straight line located on the left hand side of the main part of the cup.

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On the reverse of the paper pattern, line up the fabric piece 10 (Background) and lay it down over the top of the stack. Position the piece so that the fabrics are stacked right side to right side over the top of the cup.

Turn the stack over so that you have the printed side facing up. Straight stitch along the straight line located on the top of the main part of the cup.

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Turn the fabric over so that the right side is facing and press with an iron.

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Finish off the template by completing the same sets for piece 11, 12 and 13.

Once you have completed all press with an iron. Trim the fabric and the paper back to the 1/4″ seam that you created at the beginning of the tutorial.

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This is the end result that you will be looking for. Now, what you will need to do is turn the block over and carefully remove the paper from the back of the block. Use the stitch lines as a guide, you will line that this will help remove the paper easier. You can also use a pair of tweezers to help remove any extra paper.

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Out of the backing fabric cut four strips that are 2″ wide and 9 1/2″ long. Attach these strips to the out side of the block. When attaching these strips, make sure you have the 1/4″ seam foot (O Foot) attached to the machine. Once you have attached all four strips around the edge of the block, you can now trim the block back to at 10″ block.

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Now you can grab the two 10″ blocks that you have already cut out. With the back piece facing down under the batting and the top block facing up, pin the three layers together. Change the sewing thread to a colour that will match the backing fabric.

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Ditch quilt around the original block piece. Baste the three layers together around the outer edge of the blocks. Trim if needed.

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Using a 25mm bias binding, pin the binding to the outer edge of the block. Stitch into place using a straight stitch and matching thread. Now, you can fold the binding back and finish the block off by hand stitching the binding into place.

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Gadget Organiser

I don’t know about you, but every time I sit down to sew I always seam to have everything spread everywhere and spend 20 minutes trying to find what I need amongest my organised kayos. So the other day I sat down and decided it was time to get organised. The Gadget Organiser is  great to have sitting right by you when you are sewing up a storm and to pack up all you have to do to just fold it up…..Just Brilliant!

Requirements

Quilting Fabrics

Matching sewing thread

Pins, Hand Needle, Rotary Cutter, Quilting Ruler, Scissors.

General sewing machine supplies.

F Foot and O Foot.

Toy fill

two 14″x14″ Corflute blocks

Instructions

To start with you will firstly need to cut out the following fabric pieces.

22” x 12 ½”                                          24 ½” x 12 ½”

20” x 12 ½”                                          6 ½” x 22”

16” x 12 ½”

12” x 12 ½”

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Starting with the 12” x 12 ½” piece for fabric, fold it in half so that you now have a piece that is 6” x 12 ½”. Press with the iron so that you have a nice crisp fold.

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Thread your sewing machine with your chosen sewing thread. Attach the F foot (clear plastic foot) and choose the top stitch setting on your machine. If you do not have a topstitch setting set you straight stitch to 2.50mm. Top stitch down the fold that you just created.

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Now you will need the 16” x 12 ½” piece of fabric, fold the piece in half so that you have a piece 8” x 12 ½”. Press with the iron so that you have a crisp fold. Top stitch down the fold that you have just created.

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Now you will need the 20” x 12 ½” piece of fabric, fold the piece in half so that you have a piece that is 10” x 12 ½”. Press with the iron so that you have a crisp fold. Top stitch down the fold that you have just created.

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Now you will need the 22” x 12 ½” piece of fabric, fold it in half so that it is 11”x 12 ½”. Press with the iron so you have a crisp fold. Top stitch down the fold that you have just created.

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Once you have top stitched all the pocket pieces, you will need to stack them on top of each other. Start with the larger piece (11”x 12 ½”) on the bottom and then work your way up the stack finishing with the 6” x 12 ½” piece on top.

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Once you have all the pieces stacked pin all the layers together. Now find the centre of the stack and mark with an erasable quilting pen. Place your quilting ruler over the top and rule a line so that it is 2” on each side of the centre mark that you just created.  When ruling your lines make sure that you cover all the levels in the stack.

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Using a straight stitch with a centred needle position and a length of 3mm, stitch down the two chalk lines. This will create the pockets and will also hold all the layers together.

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Now you will need to set your sewing machine up for a basting stitch. If your machine does not have an auto basting stitch than you can use a straight stitch set at 5mm.  Stitch around the 3 raw edged sides.

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Press the 24 ½” x 12 ½” piece of fabric and lay it right side up on a flat surface. At one end place the pockets (that you just created) down over the top, remembering to keep all raw edges pined up. Pin to hold the layers together while you baste the pockets into place.

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With the 6 ½” x 22” piece of fabric, fold it right sides together so that you now have a piece 6 ½” x 11”. Pin the sides together to hold in place.

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Attach the ¼” seam foot and stitch around the sides of the piece, remembering to leave an opening to turn the fabric in the correct way. Set the piece aside.

With right side together, pin the second 24 ½” x 12 ½” piece of fabric over the top of the stack of pockets. Using a ¼” seam allowance to stitch around the three sides. You will need to leave the end that does not have the pockets on it open. Turn in the correct way.

Once you have turned the organiser in the correct way you can press with the iron and slip the first piece of corflute inside. Slide the corflute all the way to the over end and then stitch across the middle of the organiser to hold it into place. You can use your zipper foot for this as it will give you a close stitch to the edge of the corflute.  The second piece of corflute will just slide in behind the first one and sit at the opening.

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Set that aside and grab the 6 ½” x 22”. From the joined end rule a 2 ½” line across leaving a 1” gap. Fill with toy fill and then stitch the opening closed.

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Now you can pin the opposite end inside the opening of the first part of the project. Fold all raw edges inside and hand stitch the opening closed.

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October Sewing Class

Learn the art of applique, while making a stylish and functional tote bag.

Two great class times available

Thursday 13th October, 9.30am start

or

Thursday 22nd October, 7.00pm start

Requirements

  • 4 – 18 inch square blocks of Calico fabric
  • 3m of Cotton Webbing
  • A4 sheet of Vliesofix
  • Scraps of fabric for applique
  • White/ Natural coloured thread for construction of tote bag
  • Decorative cotton thread for applique
  • Scissors
  • General sewing supplies
  • Sewing machine and all included feet

Cost $25

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Janome Digitizer MBX Class

Would you like to have the ability to create your own embroidery designs?

That is one of the functions that the Janome Digitizer MBX software gives you.

Katrina’s next Janome Digitizer MBX class is

Thursday, 6 October, 9.30am start

Requirements

  • Janome Digitizer MBX pre-loaded on your computer
  • Laptop computer
  • Notepad
  • Mouse

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July Embroidery Workshop

In the Hoop Pin Cushion

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Learn how great it is to use your embroidery machine to create amazing things, like this Pin Cushion.

When: 21 July 2016, 9.30am start

Where: Woodrow Handcrafts, 105 Mary Street, Gympie

Requirements

  • Embroidery machine
  • 2 pieces of homespun fabric to fit your embroidery hoop
  • Bobbin fill
  • Cutaway stabilizer
  • General Embroidery Supplies
  • Toy fill

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Christmas Stocking Class: Sit & Sew November 2015

Create your very own Christmas stocking in our November Sit & Sew class.

After this class  you will have the knowledge and the pattern to create Christmas Stockings for the whole family.

S1130001When: 10th of November 2015

Where: 105 Mary Street, Gympie

Start Time: 9.30am or 7pm

What Do I Need to Bring:

  • 1 meter of IRON ON PELLON
  • 1/2 meter or Plain Homespun
  • 24 x 6 inch square in Christmas Fabrics
  • Sewing thread to match you Christmas fabrics
  • Scissors
  • Quilting ruler
  • Pins
  • Sewing Machine, Needles, Sewing machine feet and general sewing accessories.

If you don’t have all of the required equipment, we have it in store for you to use.