For the this project you will need two different fabric colours, one for the outside of the clutch and the other will be for the lining.
Out of the outer fabric cut the following measurements
2 x 11″ by 6 1/2″
1 x 4″ by 11″
Out of the fabric that you have chosen for the lining you will need to cut the following measurements:
2x 11″ by 6 1/2″
1x 4″ by 11″
2x 18″ by 7 1/2″
To start with we are going to create the folds for the card slots. So the material that you cut for the card slots is the two pieces that at 18″ by 7 1/2″.
With the fabric right side up you will need to mark the following measurements and rule a line across. This will be the fold lines for the card slots. Starting from the top
Starting at the top, we will now fold the end over at the first line (2 1/4) and press. At the next marked line, we will need to fold and press in the opposite direction. Continue this process until you have reached the last fold line. You will find that you will have a concertina effect.
Now you will need to thread up your sewing machine with thread that will match your lining fabric. Select a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2.5 mm and Top Stitch the fold that you just created.
The next step will be to Stitch down the middle of the folds. To do this we fold the piece that you have just created in half long ways and mark with the erasable marker and rule a line through all the folds.
The next step is to use the same straight stitch to stitch a straight line down over all the folds to hold everything together. Repeat these above steps for both sets of card slots. Set these two pieces aside for a minute.
Now you will need to grab the two lining pieces that you cut out earlier. The two pieces that we are using are the 11″ by 6 1/2″
On these two pieces of lining fabric we need to locate the middle. So the easiest way is to fold the fabric in half one way and then in half the other way and mark the center with a dot.
Place the card slots over the center points and pin in to place.
Now we need to select the 3 step Zig Zag stitch, adjust the width to 4mm and the length to 1mm.
Stitch around the three sides of the pocket, repeat this process for both sets of card slots.The next step is to select the applique Zig Zag stitch, adjust the width to 3.5mm and the length to .35mm.
If you do not have the applique feature on your sewing machine, You will need to select the zig zag stitch and adjust the setting so that the length of the stitch is .35mm and the width of the stitch to 3.5mm. You may like to float tear away stabilizer under the fabric to help prevent puckering while stitching out the satin stitch.
Once you have finished that step, you can remove the stabilizer by tearing it away from the reverse side of the fabrics. Set the lining pieces aside for the moment.
One the piece of fabric that you have cut for the back, mark out 1″ lines using an erasable market. Mark sure you rule these lines all the way across the fabric.
Now you can thread up your sewing machine with your chosen decorative thread. Choose which decorative stitch you would like to start with. Float a piece of tear away stabilizer under the fabric, using the first 1″ pen lines, stitch out your chosen decorative stitch. Continue this process so that all the 1″ lines are covered in decorative stitches.
Repeat this on the smaller front panel piece.
Once you have finished this step you can now remove any extra stabilizer from the reverse side of these fabrics. Sit the larger fabric piece aside for a moment.
Pin the smaller lining fabric to the zipper. Remember that when you pin the lining fabric down, it is facing the right side up with the zip being placed over the top.
Attach the zipper foot to your sewing machine. If you have the Janome MC 15000, MC12000, MC9900, MC 11000 or the Skyline s7, you can go into the sewing applications menu and select Lapped zipper function. This will set up the machine ready to baste the zipper in for you. Baste the zip into place.
Pin the small decorative panel, right side down over the top of the last step. So that you have the zip sandwiched between the two pieces of fabric that are facing each other and stitch all the layers together.
Once you have stitch the layers together, you can remove the basting stitch from the first piece of fabric.
You can now fold the fabrics back the correct way. You should find that all the fabrics raw edges will be sandwiched together. Press with an iron and Top stitch these layers together to finish the pocket piece off. Now you can set that piece aside for the moment.
On the second piece fabric that you cut to 11″ by 6 1/2″, this should be the piece that has no stitching on it. Rule a horizontal line 3 1/2″ from the bottom on it using your erasable marker.
Now you will need to pin the zipper pocket down over the line. What you will need to do is line up the side of the zipper that is still bare over this line that you have created. When you lay it over the top, make sure that the outer fabrics are facing each other and lining fabric is facing up.
Stitch this side of the zipper into place using the zipper foot. When you have finished this, you can fold the pocket piece back the correct way. Press with the iron.
Now with the piece that you just created, you will need to place it right side facing up. Now place the back piece that you created earlier over the top with right sides facing each other.
Pin the two pieces together. When you are pinning them together, you will only need to pin the two sides and the base. We will need to leave the top open like a pocket.
Attach the 1/4″ seam foot to your sewing machine. If you have the Janome Mc15000, MC12000, MC 9900, or a Skyline s7 you can using the sewing application menu. And select the patchwork function and select the straight stitch option. This will set your machine up for the 1/4″ seam. If you do not have this option, refer back to your user manual.
Using the 1/4″seam allowance, stitch around the three sides of the clutch, remembering to leave the top open. Once you have finished stitching the three sides, you can set this one aside and repeat this process for the lining. Make sure that outer part of the clutch is turned the correct way.
Now you need to put the lining pocket piece inside the outer clutch piece so that the wrong sides will be facing each other in the middle on the two pockets. Fold the raw edges of both pockets back into this middle sections where the wrong sides are facing, pin and press. At the opposite end to where the front zipper starts, you will need to mark a 1/4″ on each side of the join and top stitch the layers together.
Now, the trick here is to fold the raw edges in on both pocket pieces, while pin the zipper in between these two layers as well. You will need to start at the opposite end, slowly add the zipper in, until you meet the top stitched area at the opposite end. You will find that the zipper will have a tail like look to it at the opposite end. This is the look you are going for. Once you have everything pinned into place, you can go through and stitch the zipper into place using the zipper foot. When doing so, make sure that you have caught both sides of the fabric. But you will need to check that you don’t have too much of the lining side in because it will get caught in the zipper. To finish off fold a piece of scrap material over the exposed end of the zipper and stitch into place.