In this tutorial we are putting a zipper into a pair of mens trousers.
We have constructed both legs seperately and they have now been joined at the front crotch. We aren’t going into how any of this has been constructed, we are only concerned with the lapped zipper in this tutorial.
Please note, we are working on MENS trousers, which means that they are left hand lapped, if you are working on Ladies trousers/pants/shorts they would be right hand lapped.
Press the left hand side of the trouser lap in line with the sewn front crotch seam. Check that this sits correctly and looks good to you. Once you are happy, top stitch.
Press the right hand side of the trousers. Don’t press it the same way as the front lap, it should be smaller. As a rule you fold the flap in half and this will allow the zipper to sit correctly.
Pin the zipper right side up, to the side you just pressed.
Attach your zipper foot and select a straight stitch. The right hand side of the foot needs to be up against the zipper teeth.
Move the needle over until it is nice and close to the teeth, you want to sew as close as possible.
For owners of the Janome Memory Craft 15000/12000/9900/11000 you can go to the Sewing Applications screen, select Zipper and then select Lapped Zipper.
“Then select Sew Left Side”, this will set the needle to the correct position to sew the zipper.
Sew from the top of the zipper tape to the bottom of the zipper tape.
Working from the wrong side, lay the left hand side of the zipper (when looking from the inside) on the front flap of the trousers that we pressed and top stitched to start with.
Pin the zipper to the flap and check that the trousers sit correctly. Don’t pin to the front of the trousers. If not adjust where the zipper is pinned.
Working from the back, sew the close to the zipper teeth again from the top of the tape to the bottom.
Step 6. With the zipper closed lap the trousers and draw a line from the top of the crotch seam out and from the top of the trouser down.
This is where we sew the flap to the front of the trousers and then across the zipper to the bottom of where top stitched at the start of the tutorial.
Top stitch from the top of the trousers following the drawn line stopping when you reach the initial top stitching from the top of the crotch seam
That is how we insert a lapped zipper. Enjoy.